Last Day In Colombo

I was dead on my feet when I rolled into bed last night, my last overnight in Colombo. 

My head hit the pillow and lights out about 9:30pm until….. the music started. The booming base went on till precisely 1:36am. Up until then I had tried sleeping with my head under the pillow, with and without earplugs, with and without cotton wool shoved into my ears. All to no avail. By then I was beyond grumpy and it took a while to calm down before I fell asleep and suddenly it was 7:30am. 

Oh well. And today is another day in the beautiful Sri Lanka. Again the heat is unbearable, even for the locals, but life goes on. 

My tuktuk arrives on time at 9:30am and we head off to see the sights of Colombo, much of which I had already seen. 

We stopped at the Sammangodu Sri Katirvelauta Swamy Temple. Another mind blowing example of overt extravagance in a country where people struggle to survive. 

Dedicated to the Hindu god Lord Murugan, the 19th century Sammangodu Sri Kathirvelayutha Swamy Kovil in Pettah was constructed as a place for faithful Hindu traders to practice their faith. The kovil still sports its original ‘gopuram’ (ornate entrance) with depictions of Hindu deities. Even today a number of chariot (vel) festivals are hosted by the temple, symbolizing the diversity of the city of Colombo.

Next a Buddhist temple, equally as extravagant. Built in the latter half of the 19 th Century, the Buddhist Gangaramaya Temple is unique in that it serves as a cultural centre that houses a number of intriguing artefacts of the Buddhist world, in addition to being a serene place of worship. Artefacts such as bronze and brass statues of the Buddha gifted by neighbouring Asian countries, and other relics can be viewed at the temple. The temple building itself is fascinating as it incorporates Sri Lankan, Thai, Indian, and Chinese architecture.

The Gangaramaya Temple is also famous for hosting a procession of colourful pageantry known as the Gangaramaya Navam Perahera, along with the Buddha Rashmi National Vesak Festival, which boasts of colourful processions and activities that light up the city.

We drive past the Red Mosque and all the other places I have already seen. My driver insisted on taking me to a jewellers. I warned I was not buying but he insisted. I knew it would be cool in there and I was bored just driving round. Again a hard sell which didn’t work on me. I did see one ring I really liked but at NZD3,000 a bit much for my pocket. 

He then took me to a handcraft store where I was hoping to buy a Sri Lankan souvenir. Much of the ‘Sri Lankan’ stuff was the same as the Vietnamese, the Thai, the Indian souvenirs - all made in China. I did make a purchase. A bamboo woven fan. At least it will get used while I am travelling. 

By now I was too hot to want to do anything and asked him to take me home. It was a pretty crappy tour squashed into the back of the tuktuk with a broken seat, and having to crouch to see anything. He could have taken the roof off but it would have been hotter. My drivers English wasn’t great and over the buzz of the engine I heard very little. The advertised water, coconut drink and snacks were not forth coming but it filled in a few hours. 

The photos will show it off best. 

Back at the hotel a coffee was devoured and I was on the way to feeling human again. Nap time. 

I woke thinking of samosas, rotti, dosa and all the other things I thought I would see everywhere but didn’t. 

I spent some time sorting what to do at my next stop and packing my bag before venturing out for dinner. I’ve given up on the idea of street food. It just seems too hard.  Its still too hot (6:30pm) to go walking to where I know I will find local restaurants so I stay close to home in the Old Dutch Hospital complex which has a pile of pubs and restaurants (Including Ministry of Crab). 

But I am now sitting in the Curry Club waiting for my traditional Kalu Pol Pork Curry. Despite being a western type restaurant meals start at $10 through to $30 and they have some traditional Sri Lankan meals plus some modern versions. 

Wish I’d found it earlier. 

First I am bought a delicious cup of tea which has been flavoured with cinnamon and honey. It is divine. The tartness of the tannins has gone leaving a silky smooth easily drunk dark liquid. Best cuppa I’ve ever had. 

Fluffy soft rice with fried onion and curry leaves. Seems like a different beast to the stodgy rice we have had. 

The pork is almost black, perfectly tender it melts in my mouth and has a wee zing. Oh why haven’t we had food this flavoursome over the last 2 weeks. The wait staff with their smiles are so attentive. 

Dinner done it starts to rain. Yay. I head off dodging the drops and hear a sax in the distance. There is a guy on stage playing his sax to no one. Everyone vacated the outdoor arena as soon as the rain started. 

The Hotel charges $50 for a car to the airport. Uber is around $20.  So I ordered an Uber to go to the airport and there was an option for  a mini Uber. I booked it. It wasn’t much bigger than a tuk tuk but I had plenty of room and the helpful driver got me to check I had everything. The driver told me it was made in India but I didn’t catch the name. 

When I think of all the tuk tuk rides I did I am embarrassed. Most of my uber rides have been less than $2.00. 

91 petrol is 371 per litre (about $2) so by the time these drivers pay petrol etc and the uber commission they get diddly squat. I’m glad I left them the biggest tip possible 70 rupees = .40cents.   How can anyone hope to live on that?  

There are some awesome busses. Like the chicken busses Guatemala but real busses lavishly decorated and painted. Wish I had photographed one. I wish I had ridden in one. 

There is a short wait till check in and immigration was a breeze. But time for more disappointment. There are a few eating places airside but none doing local food. There’s sandwiches, buns, greek salad, burger king and even a greek shakshuka (shakshuka is not greek). Similarly the souvenir shops were much like the ones I have been to and with the exception of Sri Lankan T Shirts, ayurvedic stuff and tea, everything else can be bought elsewhere in the world, and much cheaper. The dresses I bought in Marissa for about $17 each were around $40 at the place I went today. The duty free tshirts I just saw were more expensive than the same thing in Colombo. 

It’s sad. They have such a beautiful country and could capitalise on it easy by having some special souvenirs for people to take home. At one place I saw statues of pole fishermen with a sign saying the practice was unique to Sri Lanka. Ha ha. If that’s the case I’ve been here before cos I’ve seen them elsewhere. 

Like most everywhere else in Sri Lanka the workers here are so nice. I can’t say the same about the passengers who despite the fact that we have a long wait are pushing, shoving and generally being disrespectful. 

The Sri Lankan Airlines staff wear the most beautiful deep turquoise sari’s with a peacock design. Just gorgeous.   I want. 

This part of my holiday is nearly over. I’m now in the departure lounge. Undoubtedly this is a beautiful country with divine people. The heat did me in and the unrelenting commentary and bus travel was not for me. But I am so glad I came and like India I would like to explore again on my terms and hopefully get a better feel of the place. 

But for now Sri Lanka. You are beautiful. Ayubowan, isthuti.